The Silverton, Shrewsbury
Whisper it quietly, but Shrewsbury's star is rising, writes Andy Richardson.
When it comes to food, Shropshire's county town has languished in the shadow of Ludlow for more than ten years.
Slowly but surely, however, Shrewsbury is catching up. A number of exceptional young chefs are creating dazzling flavours and beautifully presented plates.
Great neighbourhood restaurants are offering affordable food that is packed with great local flavour.
One of the town's most underrated restaurants is The Silverton, at Frankwell. Opened just over a year ago by Doug Blackmore, the brains behind the town's ever-popular Frank cocktail and tapas bar, it ticks just about every box.
Menus change regularly to reflect the season, supplies are sourced from the finest local producers and an impressively talented young team in the kitchen ensures great flavour on every plate. The restaurant itself has been created at considerable expense using the best local craftsmen and materials.
My friend and I visited during a busy Saturday night service and were extremely impressed. We found it the sort of venue that ought to be aiming at one or two rosette recognition from the AA. The service was friendly and warm, the food expertly cooked.
The Silverton is located off the beaten track, beyond Shrewsbury's Welsh Bridge, not far from Theatre Severn. It comprises a sophisticated bar to the front with a restaurant to the rear. The restaurant is styled in oak and leather, with hardwood tables built against a long wall – resembling an American diner or super-posh railway carriage. Tables on the other side of the venue are set according to the number of guests; so there are tables for two, four, six or eight, to suit.
Service comes with a smile. The Silverton has a team of fashionable staff, some of whom spent many years at Frank, and they make guests feel welcome. We were shown to our table by a dreadlocked waiter – one of the long-servers – who was polite, deferential and funny. When the opportunity presented itself, he lightened the mood: his skills were evident throughout the evening. Our waitress, Hannah, also did a great job. She was warm and thoughtful, offering discreet and friendly service. Her performance was faultless.
The menu featured an impressive array of seasonal, locally-sourced produce. It was pared back with about five choices for starter, main and dessert. I'm a great fan of such menus. They show that the kitchen is concentrating on executing a few dishes well, rather than trying to please all of the people all of the time.
I was torn between a number of starters, though eventually opted for the confit pheasant terrine, which was served with a Clementine marmalade. It was stunning. Simple, flavoursome and elegantly presented, it was a winning dish. The pheasant was tender and moist and had been expertly seasoned. It was wrapped in deliciously salty bacon and the sharp, acid marmalade cut through the savoury game. Delicious.
For mains I had opted for the venison, which comprised a rare-cooked loin with a venison faggot, parsnip crisps and a sherry jus. It had been due to be served with a pomme puree, though I requested The Silverton's handcut chips as an alternative. I devoured every mouthful. As my choices suggest, I thoroughly enjoy game and the venison was exemplary. The faggot was a treat: intense offal flavours danced on my tongue. The parsnip crisps offered texture and a presentational flourish while the chips were fantastic.
And so to dessert . . . I opted for an apple crumble served with cinnamon ice cream, which was first class. The warm spice in the ice cream allied to a crunchy crumble topping made it the perfect end to a thoroughly enjoyable evening.
The Silverton lines up alongside a number of other impressive restaurants in Shrewsbury.
Like the Lion + Pheasant, Henry Tudor House and others, it has a talented, youthful chef, a great team of waiters and waitresses and a brilliant menu. It comes strongly recommended.
ADDRESS
The Silverton, The Old Dairy, 9-10 Frankwell, Shrewsbury SY3 8JY
Tel: 01743 248000
Rating:?8/10
