Drapers' Hall, Shrewsbury
Andy Richardson see trepidation turn to triumph, after seeing a parade of delectable dishes.
Andy Richardson see trepidation turn to triumph, after seeing a parade of delectable dishes.
Our expectations were low when we ventured across the threshold at Drapers', an age-old restaurant in Shrewsbury. We'd booked a table for two on a Friday evening less than 24 hours before we were due to dine.
"A table for two, for tomorrow, at minimal notice. That'll be no problem, sir . . ." Yikes.
Friday should be one of the two busiest nights of the week in any restaurant. Ma"tre d's should have posted their Sold Out signs across the doors long before Thursday evening. So, come Friday dinner time, we trudged to Drapers more in fear than expectation. What was it about this restaurant that meant people were reluctant to book?
Of course, Drapers' Hall is a glorious venue. It was built in two main phases: the first in 1576, consisted of the meeting room and great chamber above; the second phase, started in 1580, consisted of a three-storey block. Today the venue fits a neat corner of the town and is among its finest buildings. As we crossed the threshold of the historic black-and-white timbered building, through the heavy wooden door, we felt as though we were entering another age.
Service was instantly impressive. We were greeted by a big, ginger-haired bear of a man who took our coats and walked us into the bar. He was a riot. He indulged my wife with kind and charming comments before making us both laugh when he told us a tale of excess from the evening before.
"You're both looking better than I feel," he says. "But that's my own fault. It was 4am before I got to bed."
Suitably relaxed and impressed by our surrounds, we were presented with menus. I'd have happily chosen three or four courses from both the starters and the mains, while the desserts looked decidely tempting. My wife and I bantered furiously about who should have what, both of us fancying the same dishes. Eventually, I did what any self-respecting man does in such situations. "I'm just popping to gents," I said, as the ma"tre d' walked towards us. "You order for me, I'll be happy with whatever you choose."
Shortly after, we were led into the oak-panelled dining room and drinks were presented to us. First to the table was freshly cooked bread, which had an impressive texture, though needed a tad more salt. I awaited my surprise selection while my wife purred demurely. "I'm sure you'll enjoy what I've ordered," she said.
Part of me feared some fiendish joke. Would I receive a chef's special? My heart missed a beat as I imagined the waiter arriving, silver platter in hand, with the words: "Sir, here is the pigs hair spaghetti with fish eyes. We hope you enjoy this unusual surf and turf."
But no, thankfully, the dishes I received were the ones I'd wanted. I started with the salad of seared scallops in a sweet chilli dressing. The scallops were a treat. They were big, fat, plump and fragrant and, thankfully, the tasty corals were still attached. The chilli was hot and the salad was unusually interesting. The dish was an out-and-out winner.
My wife, meanwhile, was thrilled with her warm goat's cheese crostini with an olive-and-tomato salad and honey-and-mustard dressing. The cheese was creamy and slightly salty and the presentation was great.
There was a brief pause before our mains were brought. I'd gone for the steamed monkfish with a coconut-and-mango curry sauce, rice and pickled cucumber ribbons. It was exceptional. The fragrant rice would have made a meal in itself. It was packed full of flavour and the texture was a revelation. The tasty curry sauce was subtle and expertly executed. In many years of eating curries across Shropshire, I've only visited one venue where the chef has a more masterful command of his flavourings.
My wife, meanwhile, went for the crispy roasted duck with apple sauce and a juniper scented jus. It was served with plenty of vegetables and a dauphinoise potato. She loved every mouthful.
For dessert, my wife enjoyed a chocolate fondant with a homemade mint ice-cream, white and dark chocolate sauces and chantilly cream. It was good, though not perfect. I went for the pear tarte tatin with a homemade custard. It was a winner, pure and simple.
The only flaw throughout our dinner was a tendency by the chef to marginally overcook. The food was brilliantly presented, well seasoned and expertly constructed. But, although we're talking tiny fractions, the monkfish, duck and fondant were all slightly overdone.
Heaven only knows why Drapers' Hall still has tables available at short notice. It exceeded our expectations and I'd rank it in the county's top ten. No doubt Shropshire's discerning diners will soon be making it one of the county's more-difficult-to-book venues.
Contact
Drapers' Hall, St Mary's Place, Shrewsbury
Tel: 01743 344679
MENU SAMPLE
Starters
Carpaccio of Aberdeen Angus with parmesan straw potatoes (£7.50).
Main courses
Steamed monkfish with coconut-and-mango curry sauce, saffron rice and pickled cucumber ribbons (£17);
Porchetta-marinated Italian-style pork, with fennel, tomato and olive stuffing with zampone (£15).
Desserts
Pistachio meringue pavlova with red berries and chantilly cream (£6).
ATMOSPHERE
Lively for such an olde-worlde venue.
SERVICE
Friendly, courteous and knowledgeable.
DISABLED FACILITIES
Limited disabled facilities.