Dos and don’ts of teenage skincare
With back to school well underway, dermatologists give their expert tips for tricky teenage skin.
As students head back to school this September, routines across the board are back in full swing. Forming a balanced skincare routine is crucial for any teen who may be starting to suffer with oily or acne-prone skin: but not going overboard is even more critical.
A toxic anti-ageing craze is on the rise among teens. “As more and more young people start to use hard-hitting skincare like retinol and AHAs,” says Beauty Pie’s editorial director Nicola Moulton, “it’s not just unnecessary, it could actually be damaging their skin.”
When you were younger, you probably hadn’t even heard of a toner – let alone asking Father Christmas for one. The current obsession Gen Alphas and tweens have for skincare can arguably be attributed to the culture of social media that promotes the endless pursuit of maintaining youth through “preventative” procedures and anti-ageing products.
Thankfully, movements like 2024’s brat summer has had a partial influence on teenagers now embracing the messy and tangled complexities of being a young woman, deterring them from worrying so intensely about clogged pores and “ageing” skin.
So, if you’re stuck on what or how much your teen should be using when it comes to skincare, these leading dermatologists outline what a teenager’s skincare routine should actually look like.
DO look for non-comedogenic
Teen skin is often subject to breakouts, but oily skin doesn’t mean you should strip it bare. “Look for products which are non-comedogenic, this means it won’t block the pores,” says skin expert and winner of the BBC’s Apprentice, Dr. Leah Totton.
“If the oily skin is leading to regular breakouts and blackheads, then a cleanser that contains a low percentage of salicylic acid may be beneficial; however, teen skin is sensitive, so introduce this slowly and monitor closely.”
CeraVe SA Smoothing Cleanser with Salicylic Acid for Dry, Rough & Bumpy Skin, £14.50, Look Fantastic
DON’T overcomplicate
Teen years are already as confusing as they need to be – adding anxiety surrounding skincare into the mix is wholly unnecessary.
“Whatever you’re experiencing, you don’t need to overcomplicate things. Over-using active ingredients will cause more harm than good, and may trigger skin issues that you’ll end up dealing with later in life,” says Grace Ferns, beauty expert and senior buyer at Beauty Bay.
Opting for simple products that focus on naturally derived ingredients is the way forward. “Teen skin usually does a good job of exfoliating itself, so it’s important to avoid using abrasive cleansers or scrubs daily. They can irritate your skin and dry it out, causing it to over-produce oil and clog pores.
“Instead, start the day off by cleansing with a gentle and refreshing gel formula which allows you to remove morning oiliness without stressing out your skin. Massage onto damp skin and rinse away with warm water. ”
Aveda Botanical Kinetics Purifying Gel Cleanser, £22, Look Fantastic
DO opt for lightweight
Young skin is more sensitive and prone to inflammation than adult skin, so potent and rich ingredients should be avoided all together.
“Look for ingredients like ceramides, which support a healthy skin barrier,” says Moulton, “when it comes to textures, go for lightweight formulations that won’t weigh young skin down.”
Any moisturiser that hails itself as deeply nourishing could overload the skin with unnecessary ingredients. Instead go for gentle formulations that aren’t heavily fragranced.
Skin and Me Soothe + Smooth Light Moisturiser, £21.99
DON’T use vitamin C or chemical exfoliants
There are some products that teens can use – such as exfoliators – but taking a closer look at their ingredients is crucial.
Dr. Debra Jaliman, expert dermatologist, says, “Young, sensitive skin doesn’t need AHAs, BHAs or retinol, which is designed for a more mature skin.” AHAs and BHAs are often found in chemical exfoliants by popular brands such as Paula’s Choice.
Dr. Jaliman advises against any products that contain niacinamide, vitamin C, AHAS and peptides. They shouldn’t be used before age 18 as these types of ingredients could irritate and prematurely damage young skin.
Spots and Stripes Gentle Cleansing Lotion, £14
DO see a dermatologist
If your teen is suffering with more severe acne which is impacting on their mental wellbeing, over-the-counter products won’t always do the trick.
“Acne is very common amongst teenagers due to hormonal fluctuations and can be painful, especially when it presents as papules, pustules, nodules and cysts,” says Dr. Totton.
“You should seek advice from a GP or dermatologist when it comes to acne, they may recommend prescription treatments, which may be topical and include ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide (which should only be used under the guidance of a medical professional).”
