Normandy: Somewhere for everyone

Andrew Owen visits Normandy ahead of this year's 65th anniversary of the D-Day landings, and discovers a region of history, beautiful countryside and fine food – all this, and World War Two

When the Allies invaded Normandy 65 years ago, the locals would have cheered military vehicles and their occupants as they passed by.

Today, one of those military vehicles is attracting only looks of bemusement.

Mind you, in the aftermath of June 6, 1944, I doubt the allies drove through Normandy blasting out big band music and patriotic songs - which is what we are doing.

And we're doing so while stuck in heavy traffic on the ring roads of the city of Caen, on a cold and rainy day in late March.

It's no wonder, then, that our Norman cousins are smiling at us from the comfort of their nice warm Renaults.

Still, if it comes down to a choice of touring the battlefields and memorials of Normandy in an ordinary coach, or tearing around in the back of a second world war US GMC vehicle, then I'll take the stares, thanks.

To hell with comfort, heating and proper suspension, it's much more fun sitting in the back on a flimsy cushion, with only a canvas roof to keep the rain out.

The unusual vehicle is provided by the D-Day Academy, an organization offering expert guided tours of the key battle sites, including Pegasus Bridge, where a daring glider assault captured a vital crossing over the River Orne.

I doubt President Obama will be calling on the Academy's services when he visits Normandy for the D-Day commemorations next month, but that's his bad luck. Personally, I think the Prez would rather enjoy himself.

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The 65^th anniversary of the June 6 invasion will probably be the last big opportunity to say thank you to the surviving veterans.

Many events are planned, from firework displays on the landing beaches to a parachute drop over the Pegasus Bridge memorial.

But if you're thinking of visiting you don't have to come in June. Brittany Ferries offers a range of crossings to suit all budgets throughout the year and, whatever the weather, there's always plenty to see and do.

My brief visit, with the Normandy Tourism Board, began with a comfortable overnight crossing from Portsmouth to the port of Caen.

After a breakfast of pastries and croissants at the Manoir Guérin de la Houssaye, a beautiful bed and breakfast in Bayeux, we headed for Sainte-Mére-Eglise, the first town to be liberated.

One of the gliders used in the assault is now housed inside the Musée Airborne, a stone's throw from the town's church – a church which has, hanging from its roof, a dummy dressed in a paratrooper's uniform.

You'll know why he's there if you've ever seen the film The Longest Day, although, as our guide points out, the Hollywood version of the truth and what actually happened differ somewhat. Inside the museum you can learn the real story.

In the afternoon we visit the American Cemetery in Colleville-sur-Mer. It's built on the high ground overlooking Omaha beach, where the US troops fought their way ashore.

There are 10,625 graves here, row upon row upon row of white crosses that give you some idea of America's sacrifice – although this is only a fraction of the dead, as the majority of US casualties – 60 per cent - were repatriated.

It's hard for some visitors to understand what went on here – according to the director of the site some people think the crosses are symbolic, not actual graves – so the recently-opened visitor centre tries to put it all into context, right from the beginning of the war.

Of course, thanks to Hollywood, the American role in D-Day tends to get all the publicity. People know more about the American efforts on Omaha than they do the British invasion at Gold and Sword beaches.

And if America and not Britain had been behind Mulberry Harbour at Arromanches, then the chances are I would have heard of it through some film or TV series.

And yet, to my great shame, I was completely ignorant.

Thankfully the excellent Arromanches Landing Museum is there, telling the story of how the largest artificial harbour ever seen was built in Britain and towed across the channel to this quiet coastal town.

The museum has models showing how the harbour worked, and from the its windows you can look out over what remains – hulking blocks of steel and concrete still defying the elements after 65 years.

Just up the road from the museum, on the top of the cliffs, there is the Arromanches 360º, a panoramic 9-screen cinema screening an 18-minute film of present-day Normandy scenes and archive footage of the invasion. It's not so much watching a film as being in the middle of it, and a great way to round off a day's touring.

After a night at the luxurious La Cheneviere hotel, near Bayeux, we visited the British Cemetery at Bayeux.

Among more than 4,000 white, immaculate headstones I noticed that of Private George William Badlan, of the King's Shropshire Light Infantry.

Private Badlan, of Ludlow, died on August 16, 1944. He was just 22.

I was thinking of him inside the vast Caen Memorial museum. Its displays cover the period from 1918 onwards, and explain how the "war to end war" still resulted in young men such as Private Badlan dying here in Normandy. It's a fascinating place, and it would be easy to spend a day exploring its exhibits.

The same goes Caen itself. From our hotel, Le Dauphin, in the heart of the city, it was a short walk to the shops and harbour, William the Conqueror's castle, and an excellent Friday street market which, like all French food markets, knocks the British equivalent into a cocked hat.

On our final morning in Normandy we learned about another of the region's attractions. Owning to having the wrong type of conditions, Normandy doesn't produce any wine. It is famous, however, for its ciders and Calvados apple brandies. We visited the farm of Jean-Luc Olivier to see how it is produced. M Olivier's farm is one of many in the area offering tours and, or course, the chance to taste the finished product before buying it – and I recommend the apple brandy jam.

From here we moved on to see the Falaise Pocket and the museum and Memorial of Coudehard-Montormel.

The Falaise Pocket is where the Allies finally finished off the 7th German Army. There are fantastic views looking over the peaceful, beautiful farmland where the fighting took place, and it is hard to imagine the absolute carnage that went on here.

We end our visit with a meal in La Mare ó Poissons, an excellent seafood restaurant situated minutes from the harbour and the ferry home. It's an excellent place to conclude a visit.

All too soon we were back aboard another ferry to Britain, but having sampled the history, beaches, fantastic food and beautiful, open countryside of Normandy, I hope it won't be too long before I'm on another ferry heading back.

FACTS

• Brittany Ferries operate a range of ferry crossings from Portsmouth to Caen. Accommodation ranges from seats for budget travellers to four berth en-suite cabins. For details visit www.brittanyferries.com

• The official Normandy Tourism site can be found at www.normandie-tourisme.org

• For D-Day Academy tours visit www.ddaca.com

• For information on the Caen Memorial visit http://www.memorial-caen.fr/fr/circuit_tour/index.php?lang=EN